Tool Instructions - Warranty - Parts

How to use your BORING TOOL

What you will need:

1. A HEAVY DUTY INDUSTRIAL DRILL with a full 5/8” Chuck or larger chuck which turns at a constant 300-450 rpm. Most of these drills are rated at 6 to 8 amps or more. WE RECOMMEND A 3/4" AS THEY ARE READILY AVAILABLE.

2. HEAVY DUTY EXTENSION CORD WITH GFCI RECEPTACLE to avoid any possibility of electric shock.

3. For DRILL PIPE we recommend 3/4” schedule 40 galvanized or black steel water pipe, cut and threaded into 4’ to 10’ joints depending on your drilling conditions. IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED TO USE PVC or thin walled metal pipe, as it WILL shear off, leaving your bit in the hole. For the best results Do Not Use 1/2" Pipe, use the recommended 3/4” schedule 40 galvanized or black steel water pipe.

4. A GARDEN HOSE provides water to lubricate the bit and soften soil ahead of the bit. If a hose is unavailable you can use a container large enough to hold the water needed and raise the container so you can gravity feed water thru the tool while doing your bore. Water is needed to help soften the soil so the bit can compact the dirt as you bore thru the soil.

5. A TORPEDO LEVEL is helpful to ensure that the bore is straight. If you keep the drill pipe level for the first 2 or 3 feet of the bore, the hole will remain true; after that, the only way to change the direction is to pull out and start over.

BEFORE YOU START: ‘Wear-in’ the seal & make sure the end cap screws remain tightened to prevent water leakage. Connect a water hose to the Boring Tool, attaching the drill chuck to the hex and slowly opening the gate valve to make sure there are no leaks and the tool operates smoothly.

When Using the 5” Back-reamer you must first drill through with one of the 1", 2”, or 3” bits. After you have drilled through remove the bit used and attached the 5” Back-reamer and pull it back through, NOTE: DO NOT CHANGE THE DIRECTION OF THE DRILL AS YOU MAY LOOSE THE BIT OR PIPING.

ON THE JOB: In most soils, The Boring Tool requires a little effort to push the bit through, some have used a pry bar for extra leverage. However, gravel does not compress and takes more ‘PUSH’ as does clay and compacted fill. Difficult boring may require more water and the use of a pry bar. Even under such difficult conditions, you should be able to bore about a foot a minute.

Don’t bore too fast or use too much water in extremely SANDY SOIL. Boring in sand is similar to building a ‘sand castle’; if the sand is too dry it crumbles, and if it’s too wet, it collapses. The rotation of the bit combined with the water from the hose will cause the sand to ‘bridge up’ and form the perfect hole. Experiment with how much water to use and how fast to push the Boring Tool. Start by just barely turning the water on with the ball valve and only boring 12 to 18 inches per minute. Too much water or pushing too fast can cause the sand to collapse on the drill pipe rather than forming a hole.

After completing the bore, remove the drill bit and attach the drill pipe to whatever pipe, wire, or conduit you wish to leave in the hole, and pull it back through as you pull out the drill pipe. Use various couplings as adapters to attach the drill pipe.

CAUTION: Do NOT reverse the drill, or the bit or drill pipe could uncouple. A piece of electrical tape over the reverse switch will remind the operator not to reverse the drill.

If an obstacle is hit that is smaller than a football, the water will soften the soil and the rotation of the bit will usually ‘jiggle’ the rock until it’s forced aside. If your bit stops, keep the pressure on the bit as it sometimes takes 30 to 60 seconds for the water and the bit to do their work. If the bit becomes stuck in the debris, the sloped wings on the bit will help you pull the bit and drill pipe out of the hole. If the bit is severely stuck, you can sometimes pull it out with a “come along,” or a truck or tractor.

Experiment with the amount of water needed for your boring conditions. Start with a small amount of water and gradually increase or decrease the flow until you find the amount that works best for the soil you are boring. You do not want a flood of water coming back out of the hole. Dig a sump under the hole to catch any water that does flow out. On long bores it can be helpful to use a small sump pump to keep the water out the hole. Do not exceed 90 pounds of water pressure under any conditions. Water pressure is not what makes The Boring Tool work. Water is to lubricate the bit and soften the soil.

CARING FOR THE TOOL: After finishing the job, spray "WD-40 (Specialist) White Lithium Grease" through the opened ball valve and run the drill for a few moments. A little WD-40 on all exposed steel parts (Inside The Tool) will help prevent rust. With a little care, your BORING TOOL will be ready for the next bore.

WARRANTY:

Your tool is warranted against manufacturer defects for a period of 1 year. If your tool or any component should fail during this period we will repair or replace the tool or defective component, the product will need to be returned for Warranty Evaluation. We will repair or replace after we evaluate the return. The warranty does not cover misuse or problems that occur because the tool was not maintained properly.

Boring Tool Operating Instructions

1. Attach galvanized coupling to one end of threaded drill pipe (schedule 40, 3/4” galvanized water pipe is recommended for most drilling situations) . Screw the Boring Tool Bit into coupling on target end and connect the other end of drill pipe to the reducing coupling on the Boring Tool. Any length of drill pipe from 3 to 20 feet can be used depending on drilling conditions.

2. Connect Garden Hose to ball valve, place drive hex in drill, check and tighten firmly. Use electric, gasoline, or pneumatic drill with 5/8”, 3/4”, or large chuck. With electric drills use GFCI recep- tacle for safety. Bore at speeds of 350 to 450 RPM. Keep ball valve turned off until you are ready to start the bore, then open valve slightly and start to bore so water hole in bit is not plugged.

3. To prep for a bore, dig a ditch slightly deeper than the starting point of the bore hole, and long enough to hold the drill pipe, drill, and Boring Tool. For shallow bores, the ditch should be slightly wider than the drill. Deeper bores require enough room in the ditch for the operator to handle the drill, Boring Tool, and drill pipe. If working in the drill trench, dig a sump hole below the face of the bore hole to collect the flush water. We also recommend using a 2x4 or 2x6 to keep the tool out of the dirt and to keep the needed angle or level throughout the entire bore.

4. Slowly turn on water valve until drill pipe is fill. Turn on drill and start your bore. Push the drill forward to maintain the forward momentum of the bore at about one foot per minute. In hard soils, a pry bar will make the boring much easier.

5. When the first length of pipe is almost entirely in the bore hole, turn off the and power. Uncouple the drill pipe from the Boring Tool, add another length of drill pipe and continue your bore as before.

6. When you tunneled through, turn off the water and power and remove the Boring Bit. Attached whatever you are installing —– PVC, poly, copper, or galvanized pipe, conduit or cable to the end of the drill pope. As you withdraw the pipe you will be pulling the material back through the hole toward you.